AMAZON Life by SUNA

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I have gone thru various .122 health checks, but had never tested the wheel alignment. You can feel whether the wheels are
disaligned thru small things like driving stablity and other things and I had wanted to test the alignment for a while. But I found that there are not many shops that have the mechanism to test the alignment and finally, thru the introduction of .123 Amazon Mr. O, was able to go out to a tire shop in Kasai to get it tested. The result was that the caster was greatly off balance. The camber, toe and everything was tested and I received a print out of the result at the end of the session. My .122 underwent a series of adjustment based on the result. Small adjustments were made by using a "sim". Mr. O had given me a few pieces of sim to use, and this time, I used 2 pieces of 2mm sims. I like my alignment to be stable on straights and on my way back, using the expressway, I was greatly satisfied with the results. In any case, my old body will undergo a physical, also, on Monday.
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I returned back from my business trip in Europe at the end of this month. Europe was hot but dry, but once I got off the plane at Narita, one was reminded of Thai or Vietnam and made one wonder about global warming. I ran to the garage to see how my .122 was and was happy to see that my .122 was looking slick and happy to see me. I decided to wax my car this weekend. I had been interested in a 100% Carnauba wax from Swizoel - a company with a history since 1930. When you go and purchase this product, the vendor asks what make, what model year, what color, whether it has been repainted, etc, and will give you the wax that is best suited for you. The wax I was given was a wopping 140euro - wax + cleaner + sponge. However, it did not come with a sponge for the wax. As I went thru the rather thick user manual, I found out the reason. According to the manual, the wax should applied by the palms of your hand. First, the old wax and other unnecessary components must come off by applying the cleaner every 1m2 and wiping before it the cleaner dries off. The cleaner must be applied either vertically or horizontally and should not be applied in circles (this part really was a lot of work). The wax was then applied by the palms of ones hand - the wax melting with the heat of the palms - in circular movements. Wait 10 minutes and buff with a very soft material (they were selling this, but I had decided not to as it was very expensive). Then dry in the sun for 3 hours, and buff again. Well, the result was very satisfactory and now my .122 has a shine that I had not expected an old car to have.
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I went over last evening to see how my .122 was getting along. The engine had already been fit, along with the Marchal lamps. After Giro di Karuizawa, the leather seat had come to the point where the coils almost burst out, but this had also been repaired. The engine, cooling system had been overhauled, the bushes around the wheels were replaced, and all that remained is to try to stop the rust. The holes had to be filled and everything had to be coated with silicon. I have to go overseas from tomorrow until August, so I will have to wait until I get back to see how it all turns out.
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During the most recent overhaul of my .122, I found this rather dangerous problem around the wheel and tire. In order to enter into Giro di Karuizawa, I had searched all over for a 165/80R 15 tire and finally had found one called Sneaker by Bridgestone that seemed to give me a good grip and a good ride so I had gone up and down mountain passes during the rally. However, it turned out that there was a hole in the wheel and the the wheel nut was just hanging on to the outer edge of the wheel hole. In order to balance the wheel, you need to put equal pressure on the nots, but if you add to much pressure to the one with the hole, the nut will just go through. Therefore, if there is any large pressure on the wheel and tire, they could just come off. Glad I didn't know during Giro, but when one looks back, I can only thank god that nothing happened during the rally. So now I had to look for a new wheel, but finding a 4.5X15 inch steel wheel proved to be quit a task. With the help of Mr. O (123GT), I found a wheel that is used on old HiAces using a spacer with the wheel. I bought a set of Vredstein tires off of Mr. O. Mr. O had found the Vredsteins on the internet, but the tires were very hard and ended up in with his 123GT not being able to perform properly so he had asked Michelin to develop a one off tire for him. As I am in the middle of a rather large overhaul, I decided I couldn't afford a one off and opted for the cheaper albeit less performing Vredsteins. At least these should not fall off the car. I had the new wheels painted to the same color as the body at a total cost of Yen 60,000. Unfortunately, the form of the wheels does not currently allow for me to put on the original wheel caps with the V sign on it, and I am currently trying various measures to try to get the cap on.
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A week as passed since my .122 went thru its initial health check and it is undergoing various "surgeries" everyday. I went over to see how things are going on the weekend and they were just about to put in the engine. Mr. N had given me a SU twin carburator which had gone thru an overhaul and this looked like a brand new carburator now. The master cylinder for the clutch had been changed to a Volvo genuine part. The stay on the alternater side for the fan belt pulley used to be a alternative part which made the belt pull at an angle so the stay was replaced so that the belt now worked without any stress. One of the suprises was that we couldn't see where the fuel strainer was - if this was the case, it is a miracle that no impurities had gotten mixed into the engine. So a domestic fuel strainer was attached. From here, the engine, carburator will go thru various adjustment, but for now, I am happy to see a now healthy heart (engine) with its bright red carburator being loaded back into my .122.
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With the engine lifted out, I took this opportunity to take a good look inside the front grill and inside of the body. I was up for another surprise. The botttom of the front grill had gotten to the point where you could see the ground from the inside. I don't have enough to go thru a thorough body repair like Mr.O but neither could I just leave it alone. I ran off to the closest Autobacs and bought all the Holtz Rustcoat (Yen 1344) I could get my hands on. According to the leaflet inside, a spray of this was supposed to change red rust into black rust so I sprayed on and lo and behold, the red thing started to turn black. I know this is all temporary but I also sprayed floor of the driver and passenger seat, under the spare tire in the trunk, under the battery and all over the place. I attached the photo of the spare tire space before and after I sprayed Holtz on it. I'm not that sure how long this will last but I get the feeling my battle with rust will continue. My .122 is like a patient with cancer and al I can do for the time being is to keep it on antibiotics.
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These days, my work life has become considerably more complicated and lots of issues have come up - so I have had to leave my blog alone for a while. In any case, my .122 has been hospitalized for a engine inspection, just as Mr. O's Mr. 123 has been hospitalized for body repair, metal and paint repair. But, when they tried the drain cock under the engine, nothing came out - where normally, you can drain out the coolant water. So, out came the engine and the engine head. Out came the ugly reality of the inside of the engine. As I had expected, there was a pile of rust around the water line of the engine cylinder towards the bottom of the engine. There was sludge all over the side. When the oil pan was removed, there was an ugly pile of thick black stuff - almost like tar. I had been using high quality engine oil and had been very careful about the water level, but this now seemed all useless. Because the .122 had not been driven around much, the previous owners must have left it alone and not done any water or oil change. Anyway, the rust around the water line was scratched off, washed off on high pressure and the sludge was cleaned off as much as possible. It wasn't something you could call an overhaul, but at least it was now clean. Until now, it was like a patient with hardened arteries. Well, as long as the engine had come out, I decided to change the nuts and bolts aroud the front and rear tires. When the clutch was opened, we found a big scratch on the clutch disk. The clutch had been worn down to the point where the bolt had scratched the disk. So this also had to be ground and polished. It all turned out to be much more than initially expected, but I am still glad that the engine had come out so these issues could be dealt with early on.
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During the week at Giro di Karuizawa, my .122 struggled in the rain and when I got back to Mr. S' house after the rally and looked under the floor mat, I found that it was flooded. Same for the trunk space. The space under the spare tire had become a pond. I had never driven the .122 in the rain and had even never put it through a car wash. I had just wiped the car with a wet rag and put 2 layers of cover over it. The dealer that sold me the car had shown me the underside of the car and told me that it had an undercoating so the condition was super. I had totally believed in this. But after seeing the flood, I peeled off the floor mat and saw to my horror, lots of water and RUST ! The condition was worst on the driver side and when I scratched together some of the rust, it turned out to be a nice sized pile. Its easy to see that with all this rust, the floor panel now had holes. I was crestfallen. But what can you do. Next sunny day, I peeled off the floor mat, took out the rust and tried to dry out the car. I went to Tokyu Hands and bought an aluminum panel (34X44cm-Yen 2,800 each) with holes in it and laid it on the front floor of the car. Sometime, I will have to buy a new floor panel set like Mr. O and weld it on. The aluminum panel is an emergency measure to ensure that my feet don't fall out when I am driving. It turns out my .122 looks great from the outside but as I drive on, I am finding various issues that come out from the inside of the car. I will have to be careful to stay out of the rain and keep my feet safely inside of the car.
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When I got my .122, it had on Michelin tires which looked OK on the outside, but on closer examination, there were cracks on the inside and even the outside of the ridges. I guess this is what you get from a showroom car. I sprayed on some anti-degradation spray but when I went for the recce at Karuizawa, I found that the tires didn't function at all. The whole thing had hardened and wouldn't grip anything and the brakes would lock and the car spin when I stepped on the brakes too hard. This was a bit dangerous so I decided to change tires. Unfortunately, its pretty hard to find slim tires like 165/80R15. I asked the "Tire Dept" at Bridgestone and they were able to dig something called "Sneaker". The whole garage gathered around my Amazon and worked on the tire change. I even got the current nitrogen charge, but the air tube was all loose. I guess because I put on tubeless tires on old steel wheels this happened, but it doesn't seem to affect the total performance of the tires, so I will let it be for now.
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Currently, my biggest headache is the tendency for my .122 to overheat. This year, May has brought on summer days and if my .122 runs into the smallest backup, the thermometer points to about 110C within 2 minutes and I am forced to pull over and open the bonnet for a small break. The car has a air conditioner, but I never have, and probably never will use the thing. So, the other day, I took off the condenser and compressor for the AC and installed a fan on the radiator - but only spent 15,000 yen on taking it off. I even got my condenser and compressor wrapped up in case I should need it again. The fan was 25,000 yen plus labor charge of 16,000 yen. All together, it cost me 60,000 yen to get thru Japan's summer. I took a drive thru dai3 Keihin to Yokohama, and then back using shuto express wangan line. Altho it was cloudy and the temperature was not that high outside, the fan turned out to be surprisingly effective. The engine temperature always showed about 70C when idyling and 80C even on the expressway. When running into a backup, the temperature would go up a bit, when the fan was turned on, it went down back to 70C. With this, the car ran like any other Japanese car and so, I now look forward to long and pleasant drives without worrying about the heat.
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